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The triumphal parade of trucks and cars crawled from the Rafah border crossing with Egypt to Gaza City. I had scrambled into the back of a truck with Palestinian security forces not far behind the black Mercedes that carried a beaming, waving the V-for-victory sign, laughing Yasser Arafat in the car’s sunroof. Women ululated and threw flowers. Children on their fathers’ shoulders waved their arms. Boys and girls ran alongside the motorcade. The date was the first of July 1994: Arafat was returning to Gaza after 27 years in exile.

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